Vietnam Central

Friday, November 2 – Hue

Thai, our guide in Central Vietnam

            Set on the banks of the Perfume River, Hue was the capital of Viet Nam between 1802 and 1945 under the Nguyen Emperors, and later French colonial rule. Since the early nineteenth century it has been regarded as Vietnam’s center of learning which, with its tradition of Buddhism, gives the city a sophisticated air. Hue witnessed some of the most aggressive action of the American War, including the 1968 Tet offensive, partially because the Viet Cong used the old city as bunkers.

 We visit the ancient walled Citadel where we see the former Imperial Palace, closely modeled on the Forbidden City in Beijing. Much of the city is now being restored thanks to UNESCO funding. However, the work will take another decade to complete.

            Next, we drive to the Perfume River and visit the Thien Mu Pagoda.

Then onto a Buddhist  Nunnery for a vegetarian lunch.  Not my favorite meal.

     





       In the afternoon we visit King Khai Dinh’s Mausoleum. The King spent many years in Paris.  The impressive mausoleum was built in early 20 century combining Vietnamese and French architecture, yet the best part is the interior which was artfully decorated with colorful broken china and glass and beautiful drawings.

A gold statue in the entrance.

The King's Guard

View from the top.

Finally a dragon boat to cruise down stream back to our hotel.

Sand boat.  Most interesting boat on the River.  We were told that most of the dredging is done illegally.  The sand is sold for construction.

 Saturday, November 3 – Da Nang – China Beach and shopping

Some rain and fog make our three hour drive to Da Nang less than interesting.  A stop to see the major battleground for Da Nang during the Tet offensive is the highlight.  Around 8000 Viet Cong and 600 allied troops died here. 

The attack came over the mountains.

Used as lookout and machine gun nest.

 High caliber pocks on the bunkers preserve the memory.

          








  Wow, China Beach is magnificent and our hotel, Sandy Beach Resort is quite fancy.  Our only 4 star hotel on this trip.  More later, just a quick stop now.  We drive into Hoi An, ancient city and the tailoring headquarters for Viet Nam.   Time to shop. 
          I go on a shopping spree at Yali's which is known for custom made clothes.  I order a Tux, jacket, pants, shirts and handmade shoes.  They take measurements on your body that you did not know you had and then add front, back and side photos to help the tailor know you.  Marsha basically went along for the ride, but did buy one outfit.  We will come back tomorrow for final fitting.

            Around 4 we get back to the resort and into bathing suits. 

 Off to the beach!  Fine white sand which extends for around 15 km.  Warm water with just the right amount of wave action.  Heaven.  And the sun is low in the sky and behind us, adding perfect coloring to the wave foam.

            Along with a 4 star resort comes an expensive restaurant.  Each dinner with wine for two will cost us around 1,000,000 dong ($47), including tax and gratuity.  Eating on the patio with live music in the background, NOT BAD.  BTW, the management sent a small birthday cake to our room.

Sunday, November 4 – Hoi An

            The ancient town of Hoi An, located 30 km south of Da Nang on the banks of the Thu Bon River,  was occupied by early western traders. Hoi An was one the major trading centers of Southeast Asia in the 16th century. The city has a distinct Chinese atmosphere with low tile-roofed houses,and narrow streets. The original structure of some of these streets still remains almost intact.  Later the better port at Da Nang took over most of the trade.  Only in recent years with tourism and tailoring has Hoi An become prosperous.

            Our first stop today is Marble Mountain, only a couple of kms from the resort.   A couple of hundred stairs with a large riser or an elevator ride take you to the temples.  




After the elevator ride we saw the temples.  Temples on mountains are very useful, as they are closer to Buddha and hence your requests are more likely to be heard.  

I think we now understand that there are only three Buddhas: past, future and present.  All the other Buddhas are not called Buddha in the Vietnamese language, but something very close.  They are teachers and messengers.  [Note: Later guides disagreed with this interpretation.  We are still confused.]

            In Hoi An, we enjoy a walking tour of it's ancient quarter including the Quan Cong Temple, a Chinese Assembly Hall, the Japanese Covered Bridge and the Phung Hung ancestral house.

Wedding pictures by the Japanese Bridge.  In Vietnam they take the wedding pictures months before the wedding.  It is a major expense for most couples.

           After lunch we embark on a boat trip on Hoi An’s ,Thu Bon River ,to visit Kim Bong Carpentry village and Thanh Ha Pottery village.

Net fishing from small boats.

Ferry from suburbs to Old City.

Eyes are painted on most boats.  Here is a larger fishing boat.

Marsha gets help making a jar.  The wheel is foot powered.

            Marsha’s outfit from yesterday is done and looks great.  My outfits need some modifications and the shoes need to be redone.  We will pick these up tomorrow.  I’m glad that Trip Advisor suggested three days for making clothes.

Now back to the beach for a replay of yesterday’s resort activities.

Monday, November 5 – R & R

            No tours today.  Time to enjoy the resort.  After a late breakfast we go to the beach.  We  enjoy the surf, both the feel and the sound.  Around 11 we switch to the pool and the air temperature whirlpool.  Noon we order a pizza and drinks.  Ah R & R.

At 1400 we are off to Hoi An to pick up clothes.  At Yaly’s the pants fit, the shoes fit, but the jackets need a little more work.  No worry, they will bring them to the hotel before 2000.  I worry, but they are good to their word.  Then off to another tailor to pick up clothes we found yesterday.  This store front  tailor made Marsha a dress and some polo shirts with pockets for me.  Oh, oh Marsha’s dress looks like a sack.  No worry, Marsha tells the lady where she needs it altered and to move the zipper to the side.  We go to a doorless restaurant around the corner for an early and cheap dinner and have a nice conversation with some Aussies.  A half hour later Marsha’s dress is done and looks great.  Final adventure of the day is finding our shuttle bus.  On the way I spot an on the sidewalk shoe repair man.  Marsha gets new soles for her sandals.   In five minutes for $5, they are dry and ready to wear.  Then with the help of locals we find the shuttle bus.

            Early departure tomorrow, so early pack-up and bed.